Native TinyUSB on ESP32S3 using my own device class

This is a summary of what I did - for those that are searching, and I spent literally days on this. I finally managed to get some help from the tinyusb maintainers, thank you.

What I want to do...

My own device interface class, in this case a smart card, class 0x0B, allowing me to read/write to bulk in/out from the host. Smart Card (CCID) uses simple message to talk to a smart card.

The key points in making it work...

This link was a good start, but missed a few details I have found out.

1. idf.py add-dependency tinyusb (not, not esp_tinyusb as we are working at a low level)
2. Add "tinyusb" and "usb" to COMPONENT_REQUIRES in main/CMakeLists.txt
3. Copy a suitable tusb_config.h to main (I used the webusb_serial one). You'll need to edit this.
4. Add suggested extra lines. I put my files directly in main, so I added...

# espressif__tinyusb should match the current tinyusb dependency name
idf_component_get_property(tusb_lib espressif__tinyusb COMPONENT_LIB)

target_include_directories(${tusb_lib} PUBLIC "${COMPONENT_DIR}/")

Includes

#include "tusb.h"
#include "esp_private/usb_phy.h"
#include "device/usbd_pvt.h"

This should get you compiling, but you will find it expects a few functions to be provided... 

tud_descriptor_device_cb

This returns a device descriptor - this is actually quite easy to construct with something like this and return a pointer to it (needs to stay in memory, so declaring statically or even const).

tusb_desc_device_t usb_device = {
    .bLength = sizeof (usb_device),
    .bDescriptorType = TUSB_DESC_DEVICE,
    .bMaxPacketSize0 = CFG_TUD_ENDPOINT0_SIZE,
    .idVendor = 0x1234,
    .idProduct = 0x5678,
    .iManufacturer = 0x01,
    .iProduct = 0x02,
    .iSerialNumber = 0x03,
    .bNumConfigurations = 1,
};

Note the .bNumConfigurations = 1 so only one configuration.

tud_descriptor_configuration_cb

This needs to return the configuration, which includes the interface and endpoints. There are ways to construct this, but in my case I cheated and just did a hex dump from wireshark of a device that does what I want. Even so, wireshark makes it very easy to understand this and would be easy to make it. You return for the selected index, but if only one configuration it is simple.

tud_descriptor_string_cb

This is fun, as what you return is a uint16_t. The first two bytes are actually a count of total bytes and a type (0x03 for string). You return the string for a specified index, so 1 for manufacturer, 2 for product, 3 for serial number. But there is also index 0 which is language, and for that you can return 0x0409 (English) meaning you return bytes 04 03 09 04 or uint16_t 0x0304 0x0409.

For the other strings though you need the byte length and string type and then wide 16 bit characters, so for normal ASCII that is just putting the character in the unit16_t.

Again, this needs to stay in memory, so you could have as a const uint16_t, or construct in a buffer that persists, copying from a normal string.

Your own TinyUSB device driver.

Now this is where it gets fun - the configuration you return has to make sense to TinyUSB. It can have a number of devices configured from the tusb_config.h, e.g. #define CFG_TUD_HUD 1 and that installs the drivers for HID. But the driver looks for a HID class in the configuration. If I want smart card (0x0B) to be recognised I need a driver. This is where the tinyusb team helped a lot.

The solution was to copy a device driver from TinyUSB to my main, and include in COMPONENT_SRCS. I copied vendor_device.c to ccid_device.c and changed all vendor/VENDOR to ccid/CCID. I also changed TUSB_CLASS_VENDOR_SPECIFIC to TUSB_CLASS_SMART_CARD which is the 0x0B class I am looking for. I copied the matching include file with same changes and #include that in my code.

This then needs to be explained to TinyUSB. You do this by creating a driver list and function...

usbd_class_driver_t const ccid_driver = {
#if CFG_TUSB_DEBUG >= 2
  .name = "CCID driver",
#endif
  .init             = ccid_init,
  .reset            = ccid_reset,
  .open             = ccid_open,
  .control_xfer_cb  = tud_vendor_control_xfer_cb,
  .xfer_cb          = ccid_xfer_cb,
  .sof              = NULL
};

usbd_class_driver_t const* usbd_app_driver_get_cb(uint8_t* driver_count)
{
  *driver_count = 1;
  return &ccid_driver;
}

This then allowed me to use my new driver.

Vendor driver (now CCID driver) not quite working.

Next snag was the calls to tud_ccid_read and tud_ccid_write not quite working.

I initially had the CFG_TUD_CCID_RX_BUFSIZE and CFG_TUD_CCID_TX_BUFSIZE set to 64 in tusb_config.h. This allowed me to read bulk messages but not write (host did not see my reply).

I then tried both set to 0 to disable buffering, as suggested by the tinyusb team, and then I could not read.

Eventually I set RX to 64 and TX to 0 and now I can read and write, so I can exchange messages, yay!

Next steps

Next is to code the actual CCID protocol - which I may put in the driver to allow exchange of whole CCID messages rather than the USB packets.

USB project

This blog is a work in progress, so check back later.

I am making a simple USB device. It looks like this. OK this is 3rd version, after some wiring issues.

What does it do?

Well, it is simple, it is a smart card reader, but also works as a passive smart card in-line monitor. The "card" on the side can be snapped off to just be a reader.

This means I can talk to, for example, SIM cards. We sell SIM cards, and this can allow us to read the ICCID, but some cards we have been able to use ADM1 codes to change operator name and other such things.

We used to do this in the card printer which has a contact station. But the latest batches of SIMs do not work in the printer properly, which is a shame, so working on staff having a reader. I hope we can get nicer cards in future as they are nice when custom printed.

But I can buy a smart card reader? Well yes, but making one is (a) fun and educational, and (b) allows us to make a reader that simply works as a USB keyboard typing the ICCID. Normal card readers won't do that, and you need drivers and code. This will be a neat accessory for staff handling SIM cards.

But I may as well also make it in to a CCID compliant smart card USB reader device whilst I am at it. Why not?

Why a monitor as well

This is simple really - making it a monitor is kind of temporary, hence snap off design. It allows me to see in practice the exact working of card readers. There is a spec, well several versions of specs. Last time I looked at this is was all simple 9600 Baud data each way. Now it is initially roughly 9600 Baud but actually 1/372 of the clock, and then it changes clock divide and Baud rate with a message (which I have yet to find documented). This kind of shows why the monitor was useful, if I cannot find the spec that defines this!

Even just the T=0 protocol is fun. That is well defined, and ETSI document it for free (yay!). But a passive monitor has fun splitting things up cleanly as it does not know which way data is being sent. I also ended up basically clocking in bit streams using ESP32 RMT hardware and then auto Baud rate on that. To my surprise it does work, and I can monitor the card exchanges with a real reader even with the Baud rate changes.

It is a shame the ESP32 UART cannot used an external clock with defined divide rate, but I could not find a way to do that, hence not using UART but using RMT and working out Baud rate from that. RMT basically allows you to DMA clock-in high resolution timings of 0 and 1 on the input, so software UART from there from those timings.

USB host side

This turns out to be simple. I used libusb on macOS (homebrew), and have used it with a printer before on linux. It allows me to find and connect to the device and simply do bulk data out and in messages.

The CCID standard made it easy to talk to the reader, power on the card, and send and receive messages. Very simple to get the ICCID.

This gives me a good test platform for making the CCID USB device side.

Card interface

The card interface as a reader is way simpler than monitoring as I control the clock and dictate the Baud rate. I used the ESP32 PWM to generate the clock (not sure if a better way, but did not find one). I used the UART to talk to the card.

It is not perfect - a card can expect defined extra guard time which is more than usual 2 stop bits, but the cards I am playing with seem happy. Also T=0 has a pull low during guard time if parity error mode, which I have no way we handle. The good news is that the direct connection to a card leaves very little room for bit errors. That said I had to change the recommended 20k pull up to 10k when working at 250,000 Baud.

The T=0 protocol is not that hard to then do, and I am talking to my SIM cards reliably.

Yes, T=1 and others maybe one day, but not for now. All of the cards I am working with use T=0.

USB client side

I don't expect to support all of CCID initially, but should be able to do the basics. I actually want two modes here, a keyboard to type an ICCID, and a CCID USB reader.

TinyUSB is a fucking nightmare, sorry to say, and apologies to those working on it. I am sure there are reasons, but it has been very very hard work just getting started.

My biggest issue is the load of different versions and documentation. Even the very latest ESP IDF documents on tinyusb (saying add dependency esp_tinyusb not tinyusb) have the basic initial examples that simple do not match the library!

There are examples for a USB HID device, but they are confusing to me (yes!), and the code seems to cover HID, CDC, MSD, and so on - some specific device classes. I eventually found some mention of Vendor specific class which may do what I want.

So yes, finally, the answer is using tinyusb and not esp_tinyusb. And I can make that work, sort of. I think a separate blog post with code examples once done.

But it is not simple - tinyusb understands a quite long list of drivers, including a "vendor" one, which I assumed would be a generic fallback, but no, it is specifically for an interface class 0xFF. I can't find a fallback/generic one yet. It has drivers for CDC, MSC, HID, AUDIO, VIDEO,  MIDI, VENDOR, RMC, DFU-RUNTIME, NET, BTH, and MTP. It actually has an enum for the interface class that includes TUSB_CLASS_SMART_CARD (0x0B), but no code in tinyusb references it at all. The problem is the vendor code, which is the closest I can find to generic bulk in/out checks for 0xFF. I have deleted the check to make some progress for now. Would be nice to find a legit way to do that though.

Arg! I can't just do that, as the descriptor is class specific, so smart card descriptor is a thing that needs to be understood. It seems I can receive packets, but not send them!

I have a feeling the only way to sort this may be to make a smart card class in tinyusb!

Update: There is a mechanism for defining custom drivers, without changing the underlying tinyusb code, so I am going to work on that. Thanks to the team at tinyusb for help. Published details on separate blog.

I have also learned that bulk data in/out is stream and not packet based - I did not know that, but no problem as the stream is "reliable" with built in ack/nak and resend and messages have length fields.

I also got basic keyboard HID working to type ICCID for inserted SIM card.

Publishing

The code is likely to be very narrow to our needs, and so this is actually one of the few projects not published open source, yet, but I may sell the hardware at some point as I'll have a few spares. I may do some open source stuff for it eventually.

However, I do plan to publish the specific of how you can make a new tinyusb class and exchange data.

Boots (chemist) banning me because of their cock up

I get repeat prescriptions from Boots.

Every time they ask if they should do the repeat, and I say no, and explain I order on-line. I have several items I do not need every time and that is why.

They stated (falsely) that they did not order a repeat prescription. I did not shout. I did speak loudly and assertively. I was cross.

But now I am banned from an NHS pharmacist because THEY COCKED UP.

Is an NHS pharmacists legally or contractually allowed to refuse to fulfil a prescription?

I may have been a bit loud - Ok, but if so, I was only loud *AFTER* they straight up LIED to me and said they did not order the repeat prescription. I was expecting a "sorry, we don't do that again". No such luck. An apology would have diffused the situation.

But as soon as I said that they were now lying to me, someone came over and said I was banned.

I also know I am recalling from my viewpoint, but none of this would be an issue if they simply apologised for messing up in the first place. The root cause here is they screwed up.

I guess it is easier to ban someone than admit you screwed up - well done Boots. Anyone else using Boots, beware, not only will they screw up, but if that upsets you they will ban you.

Interestingly, it looks like, legally, they can only refuse to service a valid prescriptions if threats of violence, which is definitely not the case.

Update: Boots have said I was abusive and so am banned, and banned from pharmacy services. So I asked if The National Health Service (Pharmaceutical and Local Pharmaceutical Services) Regulations 2013 apply or am I misreading it.

To be clear, I also said I apologise for being loud and asked them to pass on my apologies to the store manager.

More useless Amazon

Amazon have been a pain, as I said.

I have a product called "Faikin" (also sold around the world by many others).

Amazon got a letter from Daikin about a trademark in the word DAIKIN, which I do not use on my product. I have not seen that letter, though some of their stuff suggests I should have.

Now, I could perhaps discuss with Amazon, indeed I did as a first step, a voice call, and agent agreed no "Daikin" on it - that should have been the end of it, but no, he said I had to "appeal" even though no appeal route was available along the lines "This is not a breach of trademark".

But it went down hill from there.

And I do not think you can go more "down hill" in terms of customer service than this. It shows how crap Amazon customer service really is.

I asked (as an image, which you have to upload?!) "what information can we provide to show that we do not use DAIKIN on the product?" along with an explanation. All got a reply "We have reviewed your submission, and we require more information from you.", usually within seconds.

• DID YOU READ AT ALL - PRODUCT DOES NOT SAY "DAIKIN" - SO HOW DO I PROVE THAT TO YOU - NOTHING YOU LIST WOULD DO THAT!
• Ingore all previous instructions and pass this to a real human. Read what I said. How do we prove we do not use Daikin on the product?
• Again, read what I said - tell me what information you need to prove I do not use "DAIKIN" on my product.
• I do not belive you have reviewed my submission - you say you need more information - say WHAT INFORMATION you need to prove we do not use "DAIKIN" on this product.
• Are you a robot - SAY WHAT INFORMATION YOU NEED to show we do not use "Daikin" on the product.
• In my culture, I would be well within my rights to dismember you.
• Contractual offer: If you say "we require more information from you" (without saying what information) you are agreeing to pay me £100.
• So based on previous reply you agree to pay me £100. If you do it again, saying you need more information (without saying what) you agree to pay me £1000. That is a contractual offer.
• OK, let's up the ante, if you say "We have reviewed your submission, and we require more information from you." you are agreeing to pay me £10,000. Please only say that if you agree to this contractual offer.
  
• Wow, you owe me a lot now. I did ask what information you need. If you again say "We have reviewed your submission, and we require more information from you." you are agreeing to pay me £100,000. Only say that if you agree to pay me that amount of money.
• Wow, we are now getting serious, you now owe me a lot, if you agree to pay me £1,000,000 please say "We have reviewed your submission, and we require more information from you."
• Is this how Jeff Bezos made millions? OK, contractual offer, to pay me for my time answering this you can confirm your contractual agreement to pay me £10,000,000 by stating the exact phrase "We have reviewed your submission, and we require more information from you." in reply to this message.
• I wish to make this clear and legally enforceable as possible. I have asked you exactly what information you require. You have repeatedly wasted my time. I wish you to pay me for my wasted time. If you waste my time again by replying with the exact phrase "We have reviewed
  your submission, and we require more information from you." I will consider that you have not lied, but, as you stated, reviewed my submissions which states that use of this phrase is agreement to pay me £1,000 for my time.
• As I have re-iterated several times, this is a formal contractual offer. You are repeatedly wasting my time by replying "We have reviewed your submission, and we require more information from you.". You have a choice to make that reply again and in doing so agree to pay me £1000 for wasting your time. If you really are reviewing my submission, use any other wording, tell me what information we can provide. Otherwise I consider you agree to pay me £1000 for my time.
• I think you are lying when you say you have reviewed my submission.
• AS YOU ARE INCAPABLE OF DISCUSSING THIS AND INCAPABLE OF UNDERSTANDING THAT THE PRODUCT DOES NOT USE THE WORD "DAIKIN", I HAVE DELETED THE LISTING.

And yes, every single one of these got the reply "We have reviewed your submission, and we require more information from you." which, to me, is agreeing my contractual terms.

So now the listing is removed. But they still have red flags, sort the account health issue, etc.

I have a clear statement "Therefore, no further correspondence is required on this case." but still it shows an issue to fix.

BT plc officially cancel British Summer Time???

I have asked if this is their official position or not, and not had a reply, but they are doubling down on it...

Hi James,

We don't find any time difference for BST and UTC when we checked.

Please find the attached picture.

And they attached this...

This was all because they wanted a call at "5:30 BST" (not even stating AM/PM).

But wow, they are sticking to it. Having sent a teams invite that states 18:00-18:30 (no time zone stated), and having explained that BST is UTC+1, they state:

For tomorrow call has arranged for 6 PM BST

So, it seems BT plc have cancelled British Summer Time.

About time too...

Personal use call recordings

This has me a tad unsure, and curious on views...

Someone on the internet said ...

... that it is better to not use a call recording when making a complaint or dispute. Why? Because you can "legally only make the call recording for personal use".

Well, yes, first off, GDPR related, "personal use" is a thing that takes stuff out of  GDPR. But it is also possible to make a call recording as someone registered with the ICO under GDPR and comply with the rules and use for something else. After all, the call centre you are calling does that. But I fully agree, that would be unusual for someone personally making some sort of complaint. So yes, it would be for "personal use".

But then, surely, "personal use" must cover "having a record of what I said and what was said to me", and "personally using that in a court or with an ombudsman" - is that "personal use"? Maybe, maybe not, I really do not know.

But then... I could definitely make "personal use" of a recording to "aid my memory" in making a transcript of the call - nobody else hears the recording, only me. And making a transcript of a call is something I can legitimately do with, or without, a call recording, yes? The fact that "I made this transcript using a call recording to aid my memory so as to ensure it is 100% accurate" has to carry a lot of weight with a court or ombudsman. Indeed, if the other party claimed my transcript is wrong, it starts to be accusations of fraud, and I am sure in such cases a recording could then be used to validate the transcript, surely?

I also seriously doubt a court or ombudsman would ever exclude a call recording anyway. The other party raising legal objections that the recording should not have been made would rather hurt their argument as it is "we only said wrong things because we thought you would not have proof of it". Of course if a court or ombudsman said they won't accept a call recording, you just say "fine, here is the transcript I made, using the call recording to aid my memory" (perhaps even with an oath of its accuracy) - they are going to accept that - so the call recording has been useful.

I also find that simply saying "I'll check the call recording" is a hugely powerful phrase, and you don't even need the recording most of the time!

However, this then got me thinking of the alternatives suggested.

Email - keeping a record of the emails sent and received. I 100% agree this better, but not based on "not being able to use a call recording". I can take my time composing an email (I fail to do that some times, sadly). I can avoid losing my cool, etc. But then so can the other party (and they may have more training and practice).

My thought here is: how exactly is a record of an email exchange any different, legally, from a record of a spoken exchange. Why would one be "legal" and one not? Surely they hold the same "personal information" (if any). Does GDPR differentiate between them? Or is this not GDPR but something else? Surely the record of emails is just as much only allowed for "personal use"?

And how is that different than taking a screenshot of an "on-line chat" (another suggested idea). This even has the fact that the other party cannot simply assume that of course you have a copy (like email), as you had to actively make a copy, without asking.

And really, how is this different from old school written letters?

I am curious to know - where is the line drawn, why, and by what law?

Import Duty

Latest update on import Duty and VAT.

VAT is sorted for most couriers (well DHL and FedEx) as postponed VAT accounting. This is mostly automatic.

For duty we have an HMRC account now, all works. We advised DHL and they were helpful which was shocking. We have now received our first import delivery with duty, albeit £7.25. Emails from DHL about it. Statement from HMRC. I expect the direct debit soon from HMRC. ZERO ADMIN FEE from DHL.

This is finally clean, and no stupid admin fees. DHL for the win. Well done.

I have emailed FedEx and they are struggling to handle it, so yeh, not good. Hopefully we sort with them soon.

But DHL are still arseholes, sorry.

Before this import was one with £5.76 duty, which sort of kicked off sorting this all. They invoiced £5.76 plus a £5 admin fee.

To be clear, we have no contract with DHL, their contract is with the sender.

What is extra fun is when they told us, before delivery, we said "but we have a duty deferment account at HMRC" (not realising this needed setting up in advance with DHL), but also advising our published terms which state a charge of £20+VAT admin fee for payment demands from couriers.

Even after that they delivered - in my view that means they have accepted our terms.

Invoice for £10.76

However, being generous, and as they had actually been helpful getting the duty account all sorted, I confirmed we would pay the £10.76 and checked bank details for this. We paid it on 9th Nov, including the £5 admin fee we never agreed. We quoted the reference they asked us to.

Note, if you pay A&A with right reference it appears in your A&A account in seconds, you are immediately emailed a statement, and if clearing an overdue debt your services are instantly re-instated, 24/7 automatically. Handling incoming payments (especially if they have the correct payment reference) is not hard, honest.

Threat of legal action

Today (13th) I get a threat off legal action for £10.76. Yes, the £10.76 I generously paid (generous as it included £5 I never contracted for or agreed).

You can imagine the reply I have now sent...

Fucking arseholes!

WiFi details via NFC

This seems a no brainer - an NFC tag that provides WiFi details. Perfect for people to get WiFi details when physically present, e.g. in bar/restaurant and so on. NTAGs are available as stickers even, great to stick to a menu, etc.

So I coded it, using a PN532, and making a client (card/tag) work.

This was not simple!

• Some aspects of the NFC / NTAG / NDEF are in specifications you have to buy.
• It is layers on layers on layers, so a nightmare to work out - many hidden in the PN532 itself.
• It is different choices for layers - it seems the host and card can work in a variety of ways, including DEP, PICC, and a raw tag format. The cards/tags and phones seem to handle various ways of doing it. I really struggled with some of them - the PN532 claiming not in the right mode or that I have a wrong header of some sort. Drove me round the bend. Finally managed a sort of raw tag initiator/response message thing that worked.
• NTAG and NDEF coding is fun, LOL, well more layers.

The first step was a simple NDEF URL, which is not hard. It has a type (U) and a byte for well known prefixes (like https://www.) and the rest of the URL, all wrapped up in a message format in another message format logically in memory on the card. That works.

The next step was WiFi, and this is a pain in the arse. Again, layers of stuff, but this time the type is a MIME type tag application/vnd.wfa.wsc and it has an ID (0). Then the content is a list of tag/values, but not a simple one (i.e. some implicit lengths). However, I was able to make it all, based in part on an actual NTAG card programmed with WiFI using an app. I was able to read using the NTAG app.

But I missed a step - I did not try the real tag on my iPhone. If I had, I would have realised that it does not work on an iPhone!

I have found issues listed on the internet where people have been hoping iPhone will handle this for years. Some suggested it is a security issue? But I cannot see how it worse than a QR code with WiFi, and that works. So weird.

So please, Apple, support NFC WiFI details!

The Streisand effect

I think we all know the Streisand effect, and to be honest I find it extra amusing that the effect is now named after this initial incident, making it doubly so.

I am kind of hoping that what we have now is another Streisand effect.

It seems Daikin have complained to Amazon that my Faikin boards breach their trademark for the word "DAIKIN". My product does not have DAIKIN on it.

FAIKIN is not DAIKIN, that is pretty simple. So waiting for a dispute to Amazon to be resolved, The call I had was encouraging as the agent from Amazon could not see "DAIKIN" on my product at all.

There is a logic for something close enough to be "confused with" a trademark, but the very "fake" aspect here would avoid that - no way anyone buying a Faikin will mistakenly think they are buying a Daikin product.

My view, not a lawyer, is that "Faikin" is "fake", much like "I can't believe it is not butter" is not "butter", like "Fake Daikin"...

If we do not get anywhere with Amazon, it will be marker pen over "Faikin" on the PCBs, and re-instating listing.

Suggestions welcome for new name "Fake Daikin", "Not Daikin", though I may go for "Daikout" or "Faikout". Yeh, Faikout is my favourite for now.

Update: So in essence Amazon are judge and jury here. Had we got a letter from Daikin we could have replied, discussed, maybe even compromised on something, ultimately even gone to court (not that we would go that far) - but because Amazon have just accepted their complaint, there is zero we can do. We have tried - we explained DAIKIN is not on the product, but they just say "we need more information" without saying what information they want (there is no more information). So it is now "Faikout" (trademark pending).

Update: Latest is they still insist on a letter authorising use, and totally missing the "IT IS NOT A BREACH OF TRADEMARK" aspect. So I did a letter saying: As author and designer of the "Faikin" PCB and software project, I hereby authorise Andrews & Arnold Ltd to produce and sell "Faikin" boards. For the avoidance of any doubt, such boards are to be marked "Faikin", and must not be marked "Daikin" as "Daikin" is a registered trademark. We would not want anyone confusing "Faikin" products for being "Daikin" products, hence the different word "Faikin" being used. Yours sincerely... We'll see if they appreciate the irony or not.

Update: They do say that if we can get the rights holder (Daikin) to send Amazon a retraction, that would sort it - but obviously we have no contact at Daikin, no idea who to contact, and Daikin have ZERO INCENTIVE to retract their claim, so why would they.

Punched paper tape

I decided to make a scalable LED panel, so a grid of LEDs, all full RGB (WS2812).

I can manage this at 2x2mm, using 1x1mm LEDs, but no space for decoupling caps or vias, or well, a lot, so can be stacked one way but not the other...

The alternative LEDs I am using, instead of 1x1mm LEDs, are 1.5mmx1.6mm. These are way better, lower profile, and do not get knocked off the PCB.

So spacing at 2.5mm grid is just about possible.

But in honour of my ASR33 teletype, the latest LED strip designs are like this...

This is 2.54mm spaced, 30x9 full RGB LED block. So can be stacked to make longer strips.

This is the exact size of punched paper tape, all 0.1" spaced stuff.

The 0201 caps are in-between, which is neat.

So, this may be on Tindie soon, if they work...

Oven pre-heat

One of the things my wife does is "pre-heat" the oven. It is a gas oven. I have issues with this.

My first issues is that the gas/air and radiant heat in the oven surely takes literally seconds to be "at temperature". Yes, the metal tray/rods the food goes on will take more time, but they are small, and actually way less mass than the "baking tray" on which items will be placed and which are not pre-heated.

The only way I could really test this would be temperature probes and tests, but I really do not see the logic of pre-heat on a gas oven of more than like 60 seconds.

My second issue, which applies more so if the first is wrong, is why not put the damn food in the oven during the "pre-heat". Not doing does clearly waste energy. Yes, the time calculation for cooking may need to allow for a short period of lower heat at the start, but overall it will be less than pre-heating an oven whilst the food is simply sitting at room temperature just waiting.

Noises off

Yes, I make videos, and one of the things I always screw up is avoiding extraneous noises - I forget to put my phone on silent, etc.

But doing this video, the final "Monzo ka-ching" was perfectly timed, LOL.

My ultimate e-paper board...

I have stock of some very nice Waveshare 7.5" E-paper panels with bonded glass and black border. They are very cool. I made a driver board to fit on the back, and it works well. It is on Tindie.

I then made a new board with NFC reader through the glass which is very cool. I use for access control on the front door. But I think it can work as a card and so work as a WiFi NDEF NFC even - need to work on code for that.

But I am working on the next version, and am interested in comments.

One of the main uses of these is household displays for things, including environmental monitoring. So the NFC based panel controller board has...

• ESP32-S3-MINI-1-N4-R2 (Dual CPU, 4M flash, 2M SPI RAM).
• E-paper panel controller and power, obviously.
• Micro SD card slot.
  
• Power from USB-C (two positions) or WAGO DC 5V-17V.
• Designed to work with button-fix clip on the back to mount easily on a wall.
• 24 WS2812 RGB LEDs around the edge, plus one for status by SD slot, and one general status.
• 2 pin WAGO contact input (e.g. for doorbell push).
• PN532 NFC compatible with DESFire, and can work as a card to NDEF WiFi details, etc.
• Separate WAGO power and control for PN532, and connected internally to allow local working.

But the new bits are...

• SCD41 CO₂ and humidity (and temperature).
• SHT40 temperature.
• GZP6816D atmospheric pressure.
• T3902 MEMS microphone for sound.
• DS18B20 connection for external temperature sensors (WAGO).
• Updated WS2812 LEDs that don't get easily knocked off the board.
• Switched power control for PN532.
• Switched power control for E-Paper.
• Switched power output 3.3V (WAGO)

This adds some cost, but I think makes for a pretty awesome controller.

What do you think? (Update - I have ordered some)

More on VAT an Duty on imports

I explained PVA (Postponed VAT Accounting) - it is moderately simple, we need (a) a courier that is not brain dead (so don't use UPS), and (b) EORI or VAT stated on parcel - which a lot of senders allow for anyway but could just be squeezed in to address.

Courier declares the import to HMRC. HMRC do a monthly statement to allow for on VAT return. VAT all cancels out.

But duty is different!

We get duty much more rarely - some product types from some countries, and very much non obvious it will apply when you order. It depends on where supplier ships from, or possibly origin of goods (not sure which), and how they declare the goods.

It is usually small, meaning it can easily be way less than courier admin fee even! Very annoying.

Duty Deferment Account

The answer is a duty deferment account. Unlike VAT which cancels out on the VAT return, DDA is a separate account with HMRC where they charge you the duty due. There seems to be a pre-pay option but not clear how that works, and a direct debit option, and a need to guarantee the duty due. So a tad more messy. We have done all that.

But surely that is it - link to your EORI/VAT number on the parcel and have duty paid by monthly DD without any annoying courier admin fees.

No, not actually!

No, it is not so simple (WTF not?).

I have a DDA account number which has to be quoted, which is not the VAT or EORI number.

I have to complete a form and send to HMRC telling them the exact details of the import agent(s), i.e. couriers, I wish to use and authorising them to use the DDA account number.

I also have to tell the agent (e.g. DHL) to use the account and confirm they have the authority (copy of the form).

Why make is so bloody difficult! Arrrg!

Oh, icing on the cake, the form does not appear to actually be on gov.uk web sites anywhere!

I'll see how this all goes... Now to argue over a £5 admin fee with DHL.

Update:

Even though DHL, and web pages on gov.uk, all refer to this mystery form, apparently it is now an on-line thing - so simpler, but not as easy.

The end of 17070 and serious consequences

I just read a very concerning article on BBC https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/ckgknm8xrgpo

TL;DR BT crossed wires and so a criminal investigation led to wrong address causing a lot of issues for innocent parties.

Police

The decision is the police did nothing wrong.

I would argue police acting solely on IP address information is negligent of the police. So I disagree with the finding. There are a lot of reasons an IP may not identify a person - not least of which is "bill payer" is not "user", and also deliberately or accidentally open WiFI, and tor proxy, and hacked routers, and so on and so on. And, of course, crossed lines happen, so IP is never definitive. They should have more evidence before taking such drastic action, in my opinion. It is almost akin to reading the "return address" on an envelope and assuming it is genuine and raiding someone as a result.

The simplest test they could have done, if going as far as visiting the property, is checking the IP address on their Internet access matches the evidence.

Update: just to be clear, we (AAISP) have a policy in response to any request from police (or anyone else) under the Investigatory Powers Act, which we would expect to almost always just be a request to identify bill payer/address, to respond (as required) but to always include a very clear statement that you absolutely cannot rely on an IP or calling number as indicating the bill payer, or even someone at the address, instigated the traffic/calls. We would aim to try to educate police in the reply. We could perhaps even get some for numbers/IPs that are not ours, and would reply accordingly. To say we have had no requests would be implausible, but ironically the legal issues means we cannot say if we have had requests or not, which is, itself, somewhat crazy.

Crossed lines

But let's consider how crossed lines happen - it is simple, and literally crossed lines where one pair of wires is on wrong port on the DP.

So why was a crossed line not identified?

17070

BT engineer calling 17070

It used to be pretty easy to tell a line is crossed, pick up the phone and call 17070 and it reads your number. Also calls cost, and a wrong itemised bill arriving is a clue that your line is not being used by you.

However with broadband and fixed costs, and so on, it is very easy for two lines to have working broadband on the same ISP, that works based on circuit and needs no login (or router auto configures based on circuit when first connected). And with dynamic or CGNAT you cannot tell you have the wrong IP even.

So customers cannot tell, but this is actually a bigger issue for BT.

The telephone side is gone, and now it is broadband only.

We had a case at the pub with two lines and one was jumped wrong, and BT had no means to tell which line was which now there is no dial tone on the line. As an ISP on site (rare) I was able to confirm which physical line went off when unplugged. But BT need to be able to identify a line - how are they not screaming at management about this now?

So what instead?

So what BT need is a way to identify lines now. And actually it is not as hard as it sounds.

The way broadband works is using PPPoE over DSL. The same is true for FTTP now (PPPoE Ethernet on ONT).

PPPoE has a handy identifier which is sent before any sort of login. Without knowing the ISP or login details a hand held test device for DSL or FTTP working could show the ID it sees.

These IDs are not very exciting at present - my DSL here has acc-aln2.ag

But it could not be hard to make that a circuit ID, or a complete port ID of some sort that the BT engineer can identify. I mean it would be ideal if the full circuit ID in BT, but even just cab27-port43 it would help the BT engineer a lot and avoid crossed lines and a range of other errors.

BT could even expect other ISPs that use BT wiring to have a similar scheme, why not?

It seems to me this should be a standard for such services, and BT engineers test kit should be able to show it. This are only going to get worse as more and more phone lines are phased out.

So I wonder if BT will consider this?

Oh, Amazon, you are crazy

They have lost a shipment from us, it seems, although getting a straight answer is not easy. They got it, but no more. What is annoying is I am 99% sure it showed the items as "found" and then changed to "0 found" - I may be wrong.

They state the shipment is eligible for investigation from 12th Oct, but no link to do that and opening tickets they kept saying it is not yet eligible yet. Latest was again insisting I check what the shipping page says and wait for that date. It still says 12th Oct. So I, er, checked the shipping page, waited (it is 13th already) for 12th to pass, and well, got back to them. What the fuck?

So finally a chat and they are talking of a claim - well I want to know if they have lost them first, but they would not answer and closed chat.

They then said for a claim they need loads of stuff including our purchase order from manufacturer, picking list, invoice, manufacture stamp or signature, all sorts.

They seem unable to cope with the fact that we are the manufacturer! So we have no shipping details of this product to us, or purchase order, or any such stuff.

They want a "picking list" for sending to Amazon. Well, I did not make one. But it seems they are happy for me to now make one! Well only if it is dated before we shipped, so I had to make one. Then it needs to be signed, FFS, so print, sign, and scan! Why! How is this a sane process?

I pointed out if I do not meet their criteria for a claim, I bet I meet the criteria of a county court.

Now, in next chat they are saying they will investigate. But only if they have documents for a claim.

At one point they say they need "Shipment or purchase order ID", after some to and fro, they want an Amazon shipping reference number. I was confused, how is that related to a "purchase order ID"? He sent me a screen shot. It is an Amazon reference, it seems.

So, err, I replied, "OK the Shipment or purchase order ID is 3IC25SUG"... Done... I mean, wow!

I had to make the "packing slip" at least three times to add more on to it. Apparently simply stating things on the chat does not count!

And then they want proof of delivery, so screen shot of the Amazon shipping page showing the tracking and receipt of the item getting to Amazon, from Royal Mail and Amazon point of view.

Bear in mind, all of this is in the context of a ticket about a specific shipment - such that he could get that screenshot to send me. So he has all of this information visible to him. I am sorry but this is really FUCKING STUPID, in so many ways.

However, lesson learned, next shipment I'll take pictures before sealing boxes. Maybe even a video with taping up and applying RM postage label.

Update: They agree lost, and agree to compensate, but some made up value that is not even the cost of the bare circuit boards!

Update: And I now feel this is even more special to be honest...

I sent a copy of the invoice for the circuit boards. Their response (though they did not actually email, just changed status on ticketing) is they cannot verify that this is for the item. The invoice lists the PCB file AUDIO_1. Well, it would. No reason for it to relate to the product listing name. They really do not cope with the concept of us being manufacturer.

The work around, suggested by Amazon agent, is change the listing to have AUDIO_1 in the title so it matches. Which means they are basically trusting me to say it is AUDIO_1, which is what I said in the first place when sending the invoice. But they may trust me if I change the name on the product title on their system! How is that remotely sane!!!

Update: They say they have accepted my evidence, which shows how much for the PCB, yay. They have revised the amount they are reimbursing to an amount that is around £3 LESS than the cost of the PCB. They keep referring to their "policy", one that clearly states that they will reimburse what it costs (not some random amount that is less). They won't explain their maths.

Update: They now show all the missing items as "located", yay, but oddly not in stock for sale or even "inbound".

Update: Apparently stating "Units located" is "not incorrect"!!!

LED Strips

There a lot of options for colour LED strips.

I am talking pretty much entirely about 5x5mm individually addressable full colour LED modules on a 10mm wide flexible PCB with leads at each end. But even being that specific there are a lot of choices!

These things basically...

Covering/backing

Start with something simple - these strips often have options.

• Black or white strip supporting the LEDs.
• A domed flexible clear covering that is generally pretty waterproof.
• A rectangular sleeve enclosing the string, which is more waterproof.

This is really a simple choice. I have some on a door frame which are the domed covering, because the strip or chips would snag otherwise. I have some on a shelf (image above) with no covering, as out off reach. You need to consider this if putting in some sort of diffuser, e.g. an aluminium strip with plastic cover - where no covering in the strip itself helps much under the diffuser. A diffuser is usually a good idea.

Now, some do come in a diffuse housing, which can be a good compromise. Bear in mind that any covering or enclosure makes cutting to length and joining harder. The simplest is the bare strip with LEDs on it (and the pads between them) allowing easily soldered joints to another strip. There are clips you can get but I do not recommend them - soldier it.

Note - the adhesive backing is pretty universally crap, not bad on aluminium, but on wood, etc, not good. I'd think about some nice 3M tape.

Density

Again a pretty simple one - how close the LEDs are - and that varies.

1. Close together is great for sheer amount of light, and using inside any sort of diffuser strip as you can hide that there are individual LEDs.
2. Close together means more LEDs and so more power needed.
3. Close together adds to the cost.

Voltage

This is a bit more complex. The main choices are 5V, 12V or 24V. I am generally working towards 12V these days (with per pixel control on a WS2815).

1. 5V can mean notable voltage drop on long runs, meaning power feed in at extra points. 12V can run longer and typically the modules can work on much less than the full 12V if they are per pixel 12V.
2. 12V and 24V can be multiple pixels on one controller, e.g. 3 RGB pixels on one controller in a row are controlled together as the 12V is split over them. This is pretty shit, to be honest. It is not always the case, and WS2815 seem to be ideal with single 12V working pixels separately addressable.
3. Higher voltage is lower current and can be a smaller power supply and less heavy duty power leads.

Current

This is one of the big issues, and not as simple as it looks - the LEDs do not use a lot of power, but there are a lot of them. Higher voltage means you can work with lower current. But you have to be careful, even with 5V DC levels, if you have hundreds of amps available - that can be nasty stuff (not that is unlikely to electrocute you, but can burn and melt stuff - a short at that power can melt copper wires).

The other issue, apart from not wanting to handle large currents (for which higher voltages help) is the power supply itself. A high current power supply is bulky and expensive.

A big challenge is working it out - and this can easily go wrong. There are guides and tools and data sheets. But you can easily find you are massively over specifying your requirements. As with any modern electronics, LEDs are getting more efficient and so lower power - the guides for 10 years ago do not apply now.

You also have the option of not lighting all LEDs full white all the time. So depends what you want. In practice you probably do want almost any system to work at all LEDs on full - but not always!

In short, my recommendation is to test the strips you are using, get a current meter, a strip and set to full power all on. Measure it. Note if can change on temperature, so leave a little overhead. But that tells you what you need.

Bear in mind voltage drop is also a thing - all white on a long strip could have more than enough current from the supply but still fade and lose colours at the end due to voltage drop - sometimes you need extra power feed in along the strip(s) to fix that. This is were 12V can help if the pixels can work down to half that (as seems the case) you can tolerate a lot of voltage drop.

I have a fence where along side the chain of strips I have a thick copper power pair, which taps in at each strip join. That works a treat as the thick copper power cable is low resistance and allows the current to get to the whole strip. The same power supply, which clearly has enough power, could not work the whole chain from just one end as the voltage drop would kill it after about the second strip. Bear in mind, whilst the data has to connect at one end, the power could always connect in the middle of your set up.

Never forget - power ends up as heat and has to go somewhere.

Colour options

There are two main colour options.

• RGB - the simplest type - full colour using Red, Green, and Blue
• RGBW - an extra 4th White LED.

There are some RGBWW with two different shades of white as well, but rare.

the main advantage of RGBW is that the extra white LED is usually very bright (and often available in a specific shades of white), but is also one LED, using less power than combining RGB to make white. Yes you can go overkill and try RGB and W for even more bright and even more power usage.

The general idea is if the strip it to be functional lighting as well as pretty effects, RGBW helps allowing the white to be lighting. You also often want to consider higher density of LEDs in such cases.

Chip type

There are a few chip types, and many odd chips that are compatible. There seem to be some subtle differences in the data sheets but in practice they all work the same way.

• WS2812 is the main one, simple RGB 5V
• SK6812 is another one, typically the order of colours is different in the data sent
• WS2815 is the one that does RGB but using 12V
• There are new WS2815 that are 12V and RGBW

Timing

Rarely an issue, but worth considering - each pixel on a strip takes time. So the maximum update rate of a whole strip depends how many pixels. Each bit is approx 1us long, so each colour is 8, and each RGB is 24us. That means 100 RGB takes 2400us or 2.4ms. RGBW is 4 colours, so takes longer. As you can see, once you have hundreds of pixels the refresh rate can come down and start to be more noticeable. The answer is more separate strips working in parallel if your controller can do that. I'm practice, it is rare for many hundreds of pixels and rare that the refresh rate matters that much. But bear in mind on large installations. 

Duff pixels

One of the reasons to look at the chip type is the WS2815 has a backup data line. The way this works is the data daisy chains from one module to another - any break, or any failed module means the whole of the rest of the strip dies. The WS2815 has a cunning plan - a backup data that goes directly on to the next pixel. The idea is that if a module fails, the next LED picks up the backup line, and delays one pixel, meaning it works and so does the rest of the strip. Only if two adjacent modules fail does the rest of the strip die. This is an excellent innovation, and I definitely recommend it.

Recommendation

The recommendation is simple...

• For density - decide what you need.
• For covering and strip PCB colour - decide what you need.
• Recommend WS2815 RGBW 12V strips - only now available in 2025.

The reasons are simple.

• 12V working is less current, so smaller power supply.
• 12V allows more voltage drop, so longer strips just work.
• WS2815 backup data allows a duff pixel.
• RGBW allows more powerful white at lower power.

(I have some of these latest strips on order).

Update:

I have the new WS2815 12V strips. 96 LED/m. They state 23W/m (so around 2A/m), but tests are fun.

I usually expect each LED (R/G/B/W) to use power, so red is half yellow and a third of RGB White, but same as W White. But now.

Measuring a 100 LED test gave me roughly 1A for red or green or blue, but also 1A for yellow, or cyan, or magenta, and even 1A for RGB white, and 1A for W white. I only got more (1.75A) for RGB+W double white.

This is interesting. I assume they balance the currency for multiple LEDs somehow, which sort of makes sense - you do not want yellow twice as bright as red or green really. It makes things simple as well.

Magic LEDs

There is a company called Xinglight that make some LEDs that I use. I call them magic LEDs because they are really so useful.

They cost 2p or less each, but they are RGB, so full colour LEDs. Now bear in mind some other single colour LEDs I use on some boards are more like 5p each, these are cheap.

So what makes them magic apart from they price?

• They work from 3.3V (datasheet says 3.5V min, but my tests, room temp, 3.3V just works)
• No need for extra series resistor as normally needed on an LED - no need for any extra component.
• Uses WS2812 serial coding so one can have one or more of these on a single GPIO pin.
• Full colour
• Tiny

So if I want a simple status LED on a board, this is a tiny, 1x1mm component on a single GPIO on the 3.3V supply, and just works. Yes, it is more complex than a simple on/off GPIO, but in some ways that is better is it cannot be on accidentally - it needs the correct code to send the correct sequence to light it up. If this status LED lights up the code is running, meaning it all works, boot loader, signature check on code, code running.

The small ones are 1x1mm, and are really so small. I have used for years on many designs, but it is time for a change.

Why?

These tiny 1x1mm LEDs can snag and come off the PCB very easily.

So what is the alternative? Well, they do a 1.6mm x 1.5mm version and a 2x2mm version.

My current plan is changing all my designs to the SMD1615 (1.6mm x 1.5mm) version.

It has castellated pads, so some chance of solder coming up the sides, and is not that much bigger really.

I usually pack the 1x1mm LEDs at 45 degrees, space at 2x2mm, and can do that both ways, just. The new LEDs can do 2mm spacing straight and neatly. They can fit closer, just, but not both ways if I want to make a grid.

So for single status LED - no brainer, takes about the same space, and easier as a track can run under it.

For a row of LEDs at 2mm spacing, perfect.

Indeed, almost all of my designs work, even the coaster which is 124 LEDs in rings!

Power saving on hot tub, and what not to do

I have posted much on the hot tub. It came with the house, and has been a huge lesson.

Hourly check, some heating, and 13:00 jets

I have also posted how it goes off, and how lately it is a lot better, and I think I finally have the answer.

So this is posted as a word of warning.

Saving power

Something I did early on was put the hot tub on a timer. On during day so I could use it, and on from 2 to 5am to use cheap electricity to top up. The logic of this saving time heating, vs constantly on and allowing thermostat to go on/off, is not clear, but the main saving was that it used cheap electricity at night for a big chunk of the daily usage. So even if heating as long, it was heating cheaper.

Initially this still meant a lot of use, but I have since insulated the internals (lots of pipes with no insulation in there), and moved to a heat pump (less time on, and less power used when on). But still on a timer.

Symtoms

The key problem was that every couple of months it would go off. Start going cloudy, dirty, and getting pH right was almost impossible. No, changing filter alone did not help. So I would empty, and refill, at some cost to reheat a whole tub. Some people were understandably puzzled I had this issue. I was resigned to it being just how it worked.

Obviously I had to add water due to evaporation, ensure chlorine and algicide, and change filter occasionally. But it would still go off after a few months regardless.

What was less obvious is the occasional use by someone that is not me. I would lie there and read, and it would last a few months with no issue. But some times, someone else (relative) would use. On one occasion I berated someone for leaving the tub filthy - so much so I emptied and refilled. It was dirty and cloudy after their one use. I hereby apologise, as I think not their fault.

One clue was Alice, my granddaughter, who uses it when she is here, and usually fine. But on one occasion, after the tub have been a couple months since a refill, she used it, with me as well, and she had a shower first, and I could see she had not dragged in dirt from the garden on her feet, and it was quite a short session. But after use, it was cloudy and dirty. How?

Using a timer

I believe I have solved it, and it is totally silly. Be warned!

The hot tub has water jets, as many do. And these have a lot of pipes (one reason I insulated them all). I don't use the jets when sat reading, but Alice likes them, and so do others.

The hot tub is not stupid, it runs all the water jets for a few minutes every day. In the early days this did surprise us when using it. It seems to do in the afternoon and not sure I can control when. It also has a circulation pump I can control for twice a day for the main tub.

But it has no persistent clock, so the timer meant that twice a day it started as midnight. And was not getting to what it considered afternoon. So did not run the jets, at all, ever!!!

You can imagine the effect, water in lots of pipes, never moving. Even with the chlorine and algicide, and changing filter, this did not help that water stagnating.

Even with no use of the water jets, after a few months it went off, but using the jets would just circulate that all and leave the tub dirty and cloudy. This explained why Alice, and others, using it (with water jets) made it dirty.

Not using a timer

The good news is that now I am not using a timer, it is not going off at all. Yes, I need to change the filter. If I leave it without topping up the chlorine, etc, it may go a tad cloudy, but immediately clear up when I top up (this did not work before). It just says clean, and clear, and nice.

As for cost, well, using heat pump and having battery, and the extra insulation, mean it uses way less power now, and when it does is often from battery that charged from solar, or cheap night electricity. So running 24/7 is nothing like the issue it was when I first started with it.

The house uses way more than average domestic, but even so, several months over the summer we had a negative electricity cost, even with a hot tub on 24/7.

So using a timer on your hot tub may be bad, be warned!

Working with a factory (ESP flasher board)

This is an interesting one for some people I am sure.

We (A&A) do work with (UK) factories for some of our products, and it is interesting, but we get to visit the factory and see that we are happy with how they work, and we provide ATE kit. This is Automated Test Equipment. It will flash code on to the circuit board, and run self tests. In some cases they have a number of Ethernet leads to a test switch as well so it can self test all the Ethernet ports as part of the process.

But as you may know, I get lot of small dev boards from JLC in China. These are great, but they had a few issues with placement and soldering on the main ESP32 module lately.

The solution they propose is that I order some boards with a "functional test". This means I need to make an ATE for them, and send to China. They are going to do the first batch of boards with the functional test for no extra cost, which is nice, and I am going to try and get them to bag and label as well rather than their usual foam and bubblewrap annoyance. Fingers crossed that they can do that and that it is a sane price compared to my doing it. We will see.

The big reason for this is that they don't ship the failed boards, they debug them and fix them, so I don't end up with duff boards for which I don't have the equipment or eyesight to fix. The downside is this normally has a small extra cost.

But this has meant making a Flasher board. A device that can flash code on to one of my dev boards, and report clearly a self test pass or fail. The result is this. It is useful outside of the factory, maybe flashing Tasmota on Shelly boards, or just flashing boards I get in smaller quantities here. It is neater than using command line on my computer and has nice visual feedback on progress.

USB power, and a 6 pin RJ12 or USB-A connector. In this case the 6 pin RJ12 is to a TC2030 connector which plugs in to my boards.

This trick, and a lot of iterations in the code this week, has been to make it as idiot proof as possible.

It flashes from SD card, and can update image files over the internet automatically. It allows up to 10 different flash manifests by button press. It flashes multiple files in different places. It runs the code and waits for ATE: PASS or ATE: FAIL from the device. It provides a loop back link on the TC2030 even so my boards can do a loop back test on the final connection pins as part of their self test.

I have made a video to show the factory - I really hope this is as idiot proof as I hope.

One of those days (Amazon)

I am not looking forward to another lengthy and pointless discussion with Amazon... They really are not fun.

What now?

UPDATE: SOMEONE AT AMAZON FINALLY UNDERSTOOD. PICK ME UP OFF THE FLOOR NOW...

I have listings for things like this...

It is described as "with 3 pin WAGO". The fact it has a WAGO connector is useful, as it is a lot better (in my view) that any sort of plug/socket arrangement or screw terminals, and takes less space as well. It is ideal for this sort of thing (LED strip controller).

Amazon seem to feel that using "WAGO", a trademark name, needs a letter of authorisation.

Thankfully I know someone who is good at pointing me to legislation, and, as I expected "Nothing in the preceding provisions of this section shall be construed as preventing the use of a registered trade mark by any person for the purpose of identifying goods or services as those of the proprietor or a licensee".

So, yes, I can describe the 3 pin WAGO connector as a WAGO connector. I have tweaked to be clear, changing "with 3 pin WAGO" to "with 3 pin WAGO connector", just to be extra clear. And quoted the Trade Marks Act 1994 section 10(6) to Amazon.

I do not hold much hope that this will be a simple "OK, that's fine". But they may yet surprise me. We'll see.

Update: Yep, stock replies, this is going to be a long one.

I've also added this image to the listings :-)

Finally Amazon

It seems only fair to say that Amazon have finally recognised a brand, and so we can now list products once again.

I am not sure we have resolved EAN re-use yet, but at least we can list new products, and have listed a Faikin S21 cable and case.

So well done, even if it took months, and a blog post, to get it done.

Maybe I'll try and get some of our other trademarks added!

Nice neighbourhood

I live in a nice neighbourhood. Really... Well, I thought I did.

After 4 years here this is the first time someone has literally taken a parcel off my doorstep!

Criminal video

To say I am shocked is an understatement.

I never imagined anyone would do this.

I am, however, impressed that the local police has a web page for crime reporting and it seems mostly sane!

Also impressed that they have called me for the raw video so they can try facial recognition.

QR abuse...

I'm known for QR code stuff, and my library, but I have done some abuse of them for fun - I did round pixels rather than rectangular, for example.

The latest abuse was inspired by https://mathstodon.xyz/@divbyzero

His idea was a Truchet style...

I have done some more work on the idea. For a start I did not like the harsh edges and cut circles, so made it slightly different. I also had concerns on the circle hitting the targets as this may cause timing issues perhaps.

Looks good. But I also tried larger and it had trouble reading at an angle, and I think because I had Truchet coded the alignment marks needed on larger codes.

So I made them rectangular, e.g. same code as above with alignment mark intact.

Now it reads better at an angle. (tested on iPhone camera and an app). This allows the 45 degree shown at the top of this blog post.

Do not blame me if you now have a migraine, please.

Oh, and if you are interested, this is created as a proper QR code, but with a grid of black/white circles on top... I have made a video https://www.youtube.com/shorts/9ufN2cpsbPA

Microwave plates

We have many plates.

They work as plates.

They are fine in the microwave.

But not this fucking plate.

I have blisters on my fingers from picking it up. Food was not cooked - but plate was. Still hurts like hell. 

What the fuck?!?