Shelly1 on 12V

I have used Shelly1 for a while, and have loads of them in use.

One of the nice features is they can run from 12V. Well, actually, they can run from mains, 24V-60V DC, 12V DC, or (via connector pins) 3.3V DC. You move a link for 12V working. Pretty versatile.

I have used them in the house here on my door bell circuit which runs from a standard alarm system 12V battery box. All fine.

I planned to use with an alarm system as well, running from the 12V battery box. First two were fine, but then the next did not work. I tried another and it also did not work.

I did some googling and people report that the 12V is meant to be exactly 12V. I must ask Shelly to confirm really, but the comments were 12V and not a battery (which is 13.8V). My example use was actually 14V. It would be a pain if it could not run from a standard 12V battery box.

Well, pushed for time, I found some 12V LDO linear regulators and got for next day. Oddly when installing these to give an exact 12V clean DC for the Shelly, the ones that were not working still did not work?!? I tried yet more, and they did work.

What is even weirder is one that was working off 14V did not work off 12V, so I had to find another. It is a good job I had 20 of them.

So it seems the 12V working, is, err, fussy, and inconsistent.

Anyone else seen this?


  1. Strictly speaking batteries themselves are typically 12V, but an alternator / charger on eg a vehicle electrical system will sit at 13.8V so as to ensure the battery charges (it needs to be more than 12V or it won't overcome the battery's internal resistance), thus typically kit designed for a 12V battery would cope with the range, and PSUs designed to replace a battery entirely will sit at 13.8V...

    1. Well, the battery backed up power supply was measured 14V and is labelled 13.8V, so the issue exists if the Shelly is fussy.

  2. NB for anyone who might be confused by this (as I have been in the past): the wifi part of the module will function quite happily on 3.3V from the connector pins, but the relay will not (its coil requires 12V).

  3. Probably critical of voltage quality. Have tried a couple ac/dc convertets that did not work. Too much ripple probably. Works fine on a expensive lab supply.


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