Man cave: Day 15

Ceiling painted, that is all...

Though I did some work over the weekend - getting some 1K resistors from Maplin's so I could wire up the tamper circuits and lock bolt sensors in to the Galaxy alarm panel. I also installed the PIRs (they have built in resistors). I also wired up the second (external) door lock ready for when the door is installed, and set up in "fail secure" mode (power fail leaves locked). Makes it more complicated for the emergency break glass to work - feeding directly from battery to bypass relay board and door control and anything else that could have gone wrong. The other (internal) door is "fail safe" just in case.

This is also the first time we have used these locks (Abloy Trimec ES8000 V-lock) as the main lock on a door. At the office we only use them as the night deadlock. They are good - unlock is a snap action and so instant, but locking takes a second or two (motor engages to push bolt down in to position). So I have had to get some simple roller/ball catches as well so the door will catch closed and stay put while the lock engages.

Anyway, tomorrow gets busy, finishing internal door, installing loft hatch, and a delivery of solid wood benches to be made in to the shelves, work bench, and bar. Personally I'd like to see the room finished by the end of the month but that may be optimistic.


  1. Replies
    1. ES8000, I have updated post to include a link.

    2. That link doesn't work now (and having looked at the price list.... OUCH!)

  2. I'd have just used a standard euro profile unit, with a electric strike on the "latch" part of the lock. Take the handle off the outside and just have the euro cylinder stick through. Then you can overlock with the euro cylinder with a bolt, and also unlock the latch by turning the key the opposite direction once the bolt is unlocked. So in a power fail situation you can still get in. Is that possible with your lock? If a fuse blows internally, can you get in?

    1. It has battery backup but if that failed then no - not via the external door. But I can get in via the internal door from the rest of the house. The rest of the house uses conventional euro-profile (ABS) locks at present.

    2. If you can access from the rest of the house that'll be ok then :) I had to kick my own front door in the other night thanks to the missus being ditzy. I shall be replacing the yale catch with a electronic strike soon I think!

    3. Locks that let you lock yourself out without the key (eg. Yale locks) are broken by design and should be banned.

    4. For an external door I quite like the fact it always requires a key to open from outside, but can be opened quickly from inside - it means if I need to escape from e.g. a fire I can without having to find my key, but an intruder can't get in just by opening the door...

    5. Alex, I agree. But my home insurers disagree - they insist on locks that require a key to open from both sides, and I have to keep the keys hidden. I guess they're insuring me against burglary but not against death-by-fire, so it makes sense to them...

    6. No idea what my insurers would make of this. I am trying to ensure I don't get robbed in the first place.

    7. That's why we overlock with a euro deadbolt at night and when the property is unattended. Also so the dog doesn't jump up and grab the latch which her indoors is paranoid about.
      Mind you, both are on the same key, I have an ABS yale cylinder on the yale lock, and a ABS euro cylinder on the deadbolt. All keyed alike. Same with the rest of the locks in the house.


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